It’s the summer of 1979 and I’m driving around the San Fernando Valley, which just so happens to be where Michael Jackson lives in Encino with his family. I am listening to his Off The Wall album, released August 31, 1979 on cassette tape in my white Volvo with red interior and a custom set of JBL speakers that rocked my world.
No matter how many times I would rewind the tape, it was never enough. The first time I heard Michael Jackson’s falsetto voice was in 1969 on the Jackson Five hit, I Want You Back, the first of four singles that went to number one. They were destined for greatness.
Today is August 29, 2023 and I am still listening to Michael’s music. Forty-four years later, the album still sounds as fresh today as it did then.
This is the magic of Michael Jackson, the young boy from Gary, Indiana who had a dream of being the greatest entertainer in the world, and he accomplished exactly that. Michael’s role models were Jackie Wilson, James Brown & Diana Ross, to name a few. By the time Michael released Off The Wall when he was 21 years old, he had been singing and dancing professionally for 13 years.
As I make my way with the intense Los Angeles heat and bumper to bumper traffic on the 101 freeway South to Forest Lawn Glendale, what makes me happy is hearing Michael Jackson’s voice singing to me.
Today we celebrate what would’ve been Michael’s 65th birthday. Michael Jackson: a young boy with a dream who soared to the stars and kept smiling even when malevolent forces tried to take away his light. His destiny would shape music forever. He sang and danced his way into our hearts. What I remember beyond his music most of all was his kindness. Michael’s talent was not only music but a generous, giving, compassionate heart. Michael said “I hate to see suffering. I hate to see people in need and I feel good God gave me a gift and I have to use it responsibly by giving back and I’ll do it until I have pennies left or the good lord calls me home.”
Here is a list of his philanthropic gifts.
I am grateful that I was alive when Michael Jackson walked this earth. What a time to be witness to the genius of ground breaking musical short films that became etched in our collective consciousness. Short films like Beat it, Billie Jean, and Thriller kept all eyes on Michael. I was mesmerized then. I am mesmerized now. Michael accomplished in his short 50 years, some of the greatest musical achievements of all time.
If only Michael could’ve been allowed to do what he was sent here to do, which was to create music. Instead when he became the biggest star in the world, he had to waste precious energy and time to fend off false allegations created only to extort money from him. Now the vultures, are not only buzzing around but have landed again and are still trying to feed off of his more than $2 billion funded estate. California has gone medieval putting a dead man on trial who can’t defend himself.
Today would’ve been Michael’s 65th birthday. We celebrate the man, the music, and his elevated consciousness that created music like We Are The World, Earth Song & Another Part Of Me.
Every year that I have the opportunity to be witness to the outpouring of love with cards, flowers, and hand written notes, I am moved to tears by not only what Michael created, but what he left behind, which was nothing more than L.O.V.E.
Today is the 14th year without Michael Jackson walking our planet and this is the most difficult blog I have ever written to commemorate him as my mother, who was sick on and off for four months, after spending 42 years institutionalized after being left brain damaged by her second husband, took her last inhale on March 18, 2023. It’s only been three months and one week ago that my mother left her physical body.
I stop at the familiar gate entrance to Forest Lawn Glendale. My heart is heavy as I have been struggling with grief and sadness. Being at Forest Lawn surrounds me with the love for Michael Jackson and sharing my blog is my way of connecting with his fans across the world who can’t travel to Los Angeles for the anniversary of June 25.
The first friends I met at Forest Lawn Glendale were Siren and Brenda Jenkyns, who traveled from Canada to pay their respects to Michael. Siren showed me her water color paintings as well as her icon pieces. Siren takes the archetype of the tarot and paints her own version.
This tri-fold card was created by Constance Pierce, an art professor. Like myself and many of us who were unmistakably affected after Michael’s death, she was struck in the heart in 2009.
Joke Smelt traveled from the Netherlands to honor Michael. Her friend Krystal was a Michael Jackson fan and they used to travel to Los Angeles together. She got sick and died last year.
My heart was hurting when my mother was isolated due to covid, now because she is no longer physically here but if seeing these photos helps someone else, then today I have helped to spread love and kindness and that was truly the embodiment of who Michael Jackson was. He was a messenger of kindness and the most creative soul to have ever lived. These expressions of love and creativity give me faith and peace that he touched so many with not only his music but his beautiful, giving, caring heart. He is missed more than ever fourteen years later.
This is Michael. Any guess who he is named after?
On October 7, 1969 Motown Records released “I Want You Back.” I was nine years old the first time I heard Michael Jackson’s falsetto voice singing this eventual number one song. All these decades later, I find it an honor to be an advocate of Michael Jackson. Michael was the embodiment of love, compassion, and forgiveness. Just like my mother.
My travels began in Lisbon which is a mixture of vintage trolleys squeaking up and down hills, trendy restaurants by famous chefs such as José Avillez and his empire in Portugal, and charming hotels such as Monte Belvedere on Rua Santa Catarina in the Bairro Alto neighborhood. The periodic fog gives Lisbon an almost San Francisco feel and I was enchanted by the many cafes with an abundance of local fish, Ribero de Duero wine and the unique black-and-white pattered tile pavement. Azulejos, which come from an Arab word meaning small polished stone, are ubiquitous.
Portugal is a country filled with gritty edges and sophisticated restaurants like Silent Living, a quiet oasis, and one of the most unique dinners I’ve ever experienced, with at least 6 different side dishes. No matter where you are, you’re never far from the sea. Is it my imagination that the Portuguese seem even friendlier than the Spanish, whom I’ve always found warm and heart centered.
The Ribera del Duero region of wine has always been a favorite of mine so it was especially exciting knowing I would be able to experience this part of the world in person.
Staying in the Bairro Alto (high quarter) and Chiado parts of the city gave me a different taste of what the city has to offer. Hilltop Bairro Alto was laid out in a grid pattern in the late 19th century, after rich citizens moved out of the Alfama area. For a different experience I also stayed at Hotel Borges Chiado on Rua Garrett. If you’d like to stay in the heart of the city, this is a great location. The street lamps are decorated with the symbol of Lisbon, a ship, carrying the remains of St. Vincent, guarded by two ravens.
As a side note, Portugal became part of the European Union only 12 years after the end of fascist dictatorship of 1932 to 1974. Too much to discuss in this blog for this topic.
A half day trip to Fátima by bus via the Oriente train station was a welcome adventure. The trip was 1 hour 30 minute bus each way but worth it. My experience of the train was good, as it stuck to its schedule and was clean. Fátima is the most important pilgrimage sites in Portugal. This is where an apparition of Mary appeared to three shepherd children, six times over the course of six months, culminating in the Miracle of the Sun, which 70,000 people witnessed. There is an impressive Basilica, huge church and sprawling plaza. One need not be religious to want to visit Fátima, just curious.
In 1930, the Vatican recognized the Virgin of Fátima and approved public devotion to the Blessed Virgin and declared the apparitions “worthy of belief.” People come from all over to be part of this modern miracle and I have read that some actually walk 67 miles one way from as far away as Lisbon.
I was invited to be part of an exhibition, at Imago Lisboa, from my 10 year photography book project, He Threw the Last Punch Too Hard, which gave me the perfect opportunity to travel there. It’s a place I would return to again as I found it to be a mixture of yummy food, rich wines, warm people and a spiritual feeling in the places of worship.
Puerto Escondido is a port town in the municipality of San Pedro Mixtepec on the Pacific Coast in the state of Oaxaca. The name roughly translates to “hidden port.” Surfers have been making their way here for the renowned Mexican pipeline, one of the top ten surfing spots in the world.
I arrived in Puerto Escondido hoping for the perfect place to relax and unwind from Los Angeles. It’s a harder-to-reach spot than the more common destinations such as Puerto Vallarta or Cabo, mainly because the closest airport to Puerto Escondido is domestic and not filled with hoards of tourists.
I took a short three hours and ten minute flight from Los Angeles to Mexico City, where we were greeted with pouring rain. I took this as a good sign, as it had been unbearable dry and hot in Los Angeles. From there, it’s a quick one-hour flight to the small airport in Puerto Escondido, and then a 20-minute taxi ride to my destination: Casona Sforza. The last few minutes of the dirt road leading up to the entrance told me I was in for a taste of magic.
Casona Sforza was the dream of Ezequiel Ayarza Sforza who had traveled to Puerto Escondido wanting to give back to the community. Thus Puebla del Sol was started. Puebla del Sol is a community project in the Sierra of Oaxaca to preserve the artisanal traditions of indigenous Oaxacans. One hundred percent of the proceeds from Casona Sforza go back to Puebla del Sol. The touches can be seen all over the property, from the monochromatic texture-rich furniture to the grey daybeds made of cotton and natural wood on the beach for watching the ocean, to soaps made with 60% honey, even to the coffee mugs and coffee.
Just eleven neutral hued, scalloped suites were designed by Mexican architect Alberto Kalach, and each room has staircases leading down to the sand. The chef, Oliver Martînez, creates the farm-to-table cuisine.
Casona Sforza bedroom suiteThe pool is so dreamy that I included two angles. Breakfast at Casona SforzaTostado de atún marinado en salsa macha de tamarindo con aquacate, cacahuate y semilla de calabaza Tuna tostado marinated in tamarind macha sauce with avocado, peanuts and pumpkin seed
The morning after my arrival I ventured out to Playa Principal, where the fishermen gather to head out for the day’s catch. My next stop was Playa Carrizalillo, a small beach in a sheltered cove where 157 steps and a view that made me smile brought me to the local hideout. I took in a bit of sun and made some photos with my Nikon F4S film camera, and Kodak Portra 400 film. I photographed only film on this journey, no digital including this photo of a surfer girl, as this is the place for beginning surfers to learn.
Playa Carrizalillo Surfer girl midway down the 157 steps. Surfer Girl – Puerto EscondidoTwo sisters – Playa Carrizalillo“We aren’t asking you to clean the beach. We are only asking that you don’t leave it dirty.”No dejes mas que huellas – Don’t leave more than your footprints. Llevas tu telefonica? Tu cartera Tu basera. Did you take your phone? Your card Your trash.
I made my way to Playa Zicatela one evening to have dinner at Chicama, a Peruvian restaurant with a floor of sand. This adorable dog greeted me. I ordered Savignon Blanco, papas hervidas acompanadas con nuestra tîpica salsa Peruana con queso fresco, aceitunas negras y huevo duro. That’s boiled potatoes with typical Peruvian sauce with fresh cheese, black olives and a boiled egg.
Self Portrait – Playa Zicatela I loved how present they were together. Playa Zicatela I met these two young men who run a surf shop in Playa Zicatela. Kindness is everywhere in Mexico. Playa Zicatela I saw these three young women sitting together in front of a store. I got out of the car that took me to this part of town and walked all the way back hoping they were still there. I asked them in Spanish if I could make a photo. Playa Zicatela
There are all kinds of activities to do in Puerto Escondido, including releasing baby turtles into the ocean, as turtle conservation is an issue. Next time I visit, I will plan for this. There is a massive waterfall near Puerto Escondido called La Reforma that I’d like to venture out to see next time, too.
From its location on a private beach to the caring service, Casa Sforza was magical from beginning to end. It’s a unique experience where tiny touches include the honey-infused soap, shampoo and conditioner, fruit drinks, and even a hand-woven straw beach bag in the room for bringing your book, lotion and camera to the beach. Not a detail is overlooked.
Playa Zicatela One of my favorite novels. The last time I read it I was traveling in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Even better on the re-read. If you’ll notice the bookmark is a Polaroid SX70 film cover.
Each person who works at Casona Sforza cares about making it an unforgettable experience. Upon checking out, I found a note written on my little takeaway box along with a smiley face filled with a custom-made pizza for my flight home and a note from reception letting me know that people like me make the job worthwhile. From awakening to the sound of crashing waves, roosters crowing, birds singing, I felt the stress leave my body. To say that traveling to Mexico always connects me with heart-centered people may sound cliché, but it’s true.
Beach in front of Casano SforzaSelf Portrait Puerto Escondido, Mexico
As I made my way to Glendale Forest Lawn Memorial Park, I wondered what in the world I would write about Michael Jackson, that I haven’t written before. On a sunny Los Angeles day, the traffic kept me from getting there too easily and I listened to Michael singing early 70’s songs in my car.
Up the winding road to the Holly Terrace Grand Mausoleum, I came upon a sea of hand-made cards, flowers, balloons, a stand up figure of Michael and there I saw my friend Andrea from Dusseldorf, Germany who flew in the celebrate Michael. With her, she carried boxes of cupcakes decorated with sunflowers, Michael’s favorite flower. She ordered them early to hand out to the fans that showed up today. I felt myself getting emotional and even though I wasn’t going to try to get a blog out today, I decided I would for the fans around the world as I always do. For me, it’s easy to get to Glendale to honor Michael. But the cards always move me and I figured fans would want to see the love.
Happy Birthday Michael from Mark and Alex Bervanakis Melbourne, AustraliaRed and white roses from ItalyI kind of loved this life size stand upFans from IranThis is the arrangement that truly moved me with the flags from around the globe.I always look forward to seeing my friends from japan’s cardsLove from Russian United Fan Family Sunflowers for Michael from ItalyThis was so intricate in person, close up. From Tiziana Schellino in Italy. Happy Birthday Michael The Giving Tree with L.O.V.E. fro Denmark and SwedenSunflower cupcakes from Andrea of Dusseldorf, GermanyFrom Germany See what I mean about these hand made cards? They bring me to my knees.
I met two fans who were sitting on the grass near Holly Terrace and we could feel a lovely breeze. We had a short talk about Michael. How he would be 64 years old today and wondered what we would think about our world today.
The back of the card above with “I can’t imagine a world without you so in my world you are here more than ever.” “Thank you for all that you have made me discover and all you still have to make me discover. And, the inside with “a free spirit, curious, humble, generous, benevolent. From my friends in Hong Kong.
I saw cards from friends around the world and some from others I do not know. But what I could feel, no matter who made the card, was the love that is still felt for Michael Jackson, 14 years after he has left this planet. Heal The World, Michael sang. We are the World Michael sang. And, his grand opus, Earth Song. If you don’t know who Michael was, just listen to the music and everything he was is revealed in his songs. For all the fans who made the cards and flew to Los Angeles to honor Michael and to the fans who couldn’t be here today, and the ones that keep advocating for him on Twitter, like Andjustice4 some, this is for you. Michael would be moved to tears to see the outpouring of love for him, just as I have.
Another view from the fans in ItalyLove from Hong Kong Emone TsangLucy Brown had such a nice vibrationI was especially touched by this card from Valentina Ruta from Italy and her quote from Rumi, that she changed a little. This is Maya. What a smile!Last but certainly not least, this handmade card from Siren, who added a battery pack to the back so the stars were sparkling!
As I made my way up the familiar road to Michael Jackson’s final resting place, I wondered what I would write about this year. Then, I saw Miyuki Amano, my friend from Japan. We both reached out to hug one another. It has been two years since she was able to travel to Los Angeles because of Covid. I met Miyuki at Forest Lawn Glendale on June 25, 2010. That was the first year that I started paying my respects to Michael and creating a blog to share with fans around the globe. My heart has been heavy lately and I hoped and knew that by heading to Forest Lawn, the magic there would help. Being around my MJ friends is healing.
Entrance to Forest Lawn, Glendale
Miyuki’s handmade MJ dolls were in front of a sign from Japan as the glaring hot sun was beating down. I asked Miyuki if I could make a photo of her with her dolls in the shade. It’s my favorite place to make photos at Forest Lawn because of the green grass, trees and hills in the background and I love the subdued light next to the tree. “Yes, of course you may.”
Miyuki Amano with her handmade MJ dolls
She gathered all her dolls in a bag that she put on her shoulder. After showing her the tree I liked, she started to set the dolls up in a way she liked. When I first met her, she wasn’t creating the dolls but rather was traveling from Tokyo with store bought MJ dolls. As she set up the dolls, I asked her how long it takes her to create them. “One month takes each doll with the body, clothes, shoes, everything.” Hardest to make is Remember The Time Doll.” She speaks such wonderful English. It would be so great to be able to speak Japanese the way Miyuki speaks English. “Do you check the dolls in your luggage” I asked, already knowing the answer. “No, I carry them in a backpack. I’m worried to put them in luggage.” she responded.
Miyuki Amano next to my favorite tree at Forest Lawn, Glendale
Every year since 2010 Miyuki travels to Forest Lawn to pay her respects. “I couldn’t come for two years. I’m so appreciative of my friends. I would send my card with friends.” A group of Michael fans in Japan would gather handmade cards for him and send them to Forest Lawn Glendale.
Card from fans in Japan – I love these colors
Miyuki’s passion for Michael always moves me to tears and is part of what inspires me to create this blog: so I can share it with fans around the globe who love Michael and cannot travel to Los Angeles. I asked her to help me create my annual MJ doll photo. Thirteen years later, the Thriller doll is missing its shoes and the Billie Jean doll have seen better days but these little dolls still make me smile.
My Billie Jean, Beat It, Thriller dolls
Next I see my friend Siren. This year Siren has created multiple drawings of Michael. For years, before I knew who the artist was, I would resonate with her drawings. Finally, around 2014, I met the mystery artist and was inspired by her story. Her heart is wide open and pure.
Siren and I spoke of the spiritual discovery of Michael and our journeys. “I started to be afraid to look too hard because I didn’t want my bubble to burst but the closer you look, the more you uncover the vault of love. That vault of love is so huge of a love. It was like expanded love, oneness, universal. I couldn’t contain it. Too much for my mind and body. As I studied about Michael, I expanded. It’s not intellectual, it strikes the soul and bursts the heart open. It took me two years to unravel the threads until my mind could believe what happened.” We agreed that the pain alters us, suffering gives us an opportunity for healing. Siren continued. “Michael felt everything. He had a capacity for emotion that he would transmute into his art. We can transmute dark emotions. We are all here to learn from the anger. ” We spoke about his History album and the songs that he created after the false allegations in 1993.
And, Brenda, who traveled with Siren from Canada came over to hug me and we made a photograph as well. It felt good seeing my old friends. Brenda’s artwork is so beautiful to see up close. Her details and colors are so bright and lovely. It made me smile and happy to see her and the latest art.
Camilla Peadilla from Los Angeles created this series of photos of Michael’s smile.
It’s been thirteen years without Michael Jackson and today, more than ever, I find it encouraging to see people come from different parts of the world to celebrate him all these years later. The creativity behind the cards, paintings, letters and flowers inspire me and it feels good to be outside, amongst other people who could feel the love that this man carried within and shared with his music. Michael wasn’t just one of the greatest artists to walk this earth. He was a kind, compassionate, generous, heart centered, loving and forgiving soul. He teaches us what’s important. We have gone through some dark times the last two years and being at Forest Lawn today gave me a breath of fresh air. I’m grateful I discovered Michael Jackson and the community that he touched. We all have a different story of how we came to know his magic. Mine started after I broke a few ribs on Iron Man 2 the day Michael took his last breath. Sharing our stories brings us together in love which is all Michael ever wanted to do: heal the world. Now, more than ever, our world needs healing and being around others who understood his mission, helps heal my heart.
Created by SirenPeter Pan by Hannah KozakFlowers and card from Siren and BrendaCard from fan in SingaporeAnother creation by SirenFans from Hong KongFans from IranRussian fansSelf Portrait
Since the 80’s, I have had a serious love affair with Mexico. From Acapulco (let’s forget about the tequila incident though) to Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas, Loreto, La Paz, Guadalajara, Isla de Mujeres, Zihuatenejo, Ixtapa, Oaxaca to Mexico City. My last sojourn and adventure was to Cuernavaca, Mexico, a place I can count on for culture with artists like Frida Kahlo, yummy food, kindness from strangers, caring and big hearts.
Beautiful boy in Cuernavaca
Without incident, I have traveled to each and every place. A dear friend whom I’ve known for nearly three decades offered me their family home pre-covid in Cuernavaca, the capital of Morelos state. Amongst the reports of danger that the U.S. consistently feeds us a steady diet, I told my friend that I can’t and don’t live in fear and it was perfectly safe to travel there.
The kindness in her eyes brings a smile to my face.
A mere 3 hour and 10 minute flight from Los Angeles, and voila, there I was in Mexico City Airport. Always looking for signs from the universe so finding a 50 peso bill on the exit from the airport seemed like a good omen to me. The Pullman Morelos direct bus to Cuernavaca couldn’t have been simpler to find and my window view included the passing of tall pine trees, various green bushes, green mountains, fields of lush greens, corn fields, Disponible (available) signs, towns with small restaurants one after another, rocks that seem as if they were artfully placed in piles and less than 2 hours later, I was in the Casino de la Selva bus station of Cuernavaca. A ten minute taxi ride and I was brought to an open floor plan home complete with 2 cats including Paquito, who was instantly welcoming and slept in each and every corner of the house as if the entire house was made for him, to Mabel, the second cat, who was convinced I was going to bring her harm and ran from me at every turn. And, Juana, a gentle soul with an open heart who kept the house clean.
Self portrait with Rolleiflex in my bedroom. Cuernavaca, Mexico
Self portrait with Rolleiflex in bedroom. Cuernavaca, Mexico.
Breakfast in Cuernavaca made with Rolleiflex.
Paquito and I became friends.
John Wayne, Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton & actress Brigitte Bardot all had love affairs with balmy Cuernavaca. Walking the undulating hills to the colonial city center to see where Cortez made his home was straight out of a fairy tale of ancient lands.
Here is Paquito at home. Rolleiflex 2.8F
Backyard view made with Rolleiflex 2.8F Cuernavaca, Mexico
Juana, the best part of Cuernavaca, Mexico.
I want to go back for no other reason than to see Juana again.
From its colonial charm with 16th-century architecture and narrow, cobblestone streets to street merchants selling corn on the cob smeared with fiery spices, to the periodic rain storms, I was smitten with Cuernavaca.
Woman at Catedral de Cuernavaca.
Band in Cuernavaca. Made with Rolleiflex 2.8F
In the nineteenth century Alexander von Humboldt nicknamed Cuernavaca “la ciudad eternal primavera” “City of Eternal Spring” because of its warm, stable climate. It’s basically constant in the 70’s. Foreign princes, archdukes, and other nobles have been attracted to this place because of its flowers, sun, fruits, fresh-water springs and waterfalls. Even Bauhaus designer Michael van Beuren had a home here while fleeing the rise of Nazi Germany where he studied and practiced his profession and a colony of Bauhaus designers grew in the city during World War II. Many Mexican residents maintain homes in Cuernavaca and many students go to study the Spanish language. Interestingly, another place that I fell in love with decades ago, Guatemala is also nicknamed “The Eternal Spring.”
Woman selling flowers in Cuernavaca
Entrance to Catedral de Cuernavaca
Another interesting part of history is Timothy Leary tried psilocybin mushrooms in Cuernavaca for the first time in the summer of 1960 and returned regularly to repeat them. Erich Fromm founded the Sociedad Mexicana de Psicoanálisis from his home in Cuernavaca and helped promote new ideas in psychiatry, even incorporating Zen Buddhism. This attracted many artists and counterculture types.
Woman selling nuts Cuernavaca
Family in Cuernavaca Center
Each city has a main square or zócolo. After settling into my room, I made my way out to restaurant Casa Hidalgo. With multiple levels to choose from, I went straight up to the top balcony and was given a view of the Palacio de Cortés and the zócolo. I ordered chili relleno, which arrived with arroz, frijoles, con queso a tortillas. (rice, beans with cheese and tortillas.) Part of what I love about Mexico is the attention to details and the ambiance everywhere.
Casa Higalgo in Cuernavaca, Mexico
History of Casa Hidalgo
Cuernavaca is mas tranquilo, mas agradable y major ambiente de DF (more tranquil, nicer, better atmosphere) than Mexico City. The primavera pajaros (Spring birds) make such a happy, chirpy sound when they’re singing. Juana asked me why no one in the family had visited their home and she said “No pasa nada de estar aqui, todo es tranquilo, fresco, muy agradable.” “Nothing will happen here, everything is tranquil, cool and very nice.”
I’ve learned not to hit the ground running after a full day of airline/bus travel so I spent the next day exploring the four bedroom home and enjoying my breakfast of mango and Mexican coffee with milk and toast with butter. That evening I made my way to La India Bonita, the oldest restaurant in Cuernavaca with full Mexican décor whose name came from Emperor Maximilian’s lover. From the smile I was greeted with by the hostess to the lush courtyard, I was smiling. I ordered chile en nogada –poblano pepper in walnut sauce.
After feeling rested from a good night’s sleep, I hired an Uber to bring me on a 45 minute drive to Xochicalco. Any UNESCO World Heritage Site is always on my list of first destinations wherever I travel. Even though the initial bus ride was a breeze, I wasn’t quite ready yet to tackle another one quite yet.
Xochicalco
The name Xochicalco means “the place of the house of flowers” in Nahuatl, but it’s more like the empire of the flowers. This was a vast walled city-state, a mighty urban metropolis from A.D. 700-900. Its rise to power occurred right after the fall of Teotihuacán. Historians aren’t completely sure why Xochicalco fell but the prevailing theory is that it was destroyed from within.
Xochicalco with Rolleiflex 2.8F
My first stop is always a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What made this such a quieting experience is it’s large enough to make the drive worthwhile from Cuernavaca but not so big that it is overrun with tourists like the pyramids of Teotihuacan outside Mexico City.
Xochicalco pyramid
As I walked around the site, I tried to imagine what this must have looked like during its zenith. As fascinating as it is today, it must have been formidable in its time. And, only about 15 percent of the ruins have been excavated. What was even better is after visiting the pyramids of Teotihuacán outside Mexico City, which is swarming with tourists, the pyramids of Xochicalco are a quieting experience, not overrun with tourists. I’m glad I saw the pyramids of Teotihuacán first.
Xochicalco pyramid
Diego Rivera lived in a home around the corner from where I am staying so a 15 minute walk down Calle Ruffino Tamayo and there I smiled seeing the plaque ‘Diego Rivera lived here from 1951-1957’. An Italian restaurant that was recommended to me, Sapori, is also on the same street. My Bolognese pasta was excellent and tasted as if I was back in Bologna, Italy, where it’s nearly impossible to get a bad meal.
It was time to buy groceries for my extended stay, so off Juana and I headed to the bus station to make our way to experience Mercado Adolfo Lopez Mateos. Everything imaginable is for sale here from exotic fruits like lychee, dragon fruit, star fruit to various meats, a large bunch of Astro Melia flowers for 25 MXN and smoked chilies. It’s sprawling and if not for Juana, I would surely have been lost inside the maze as my sense of direction is no bueno. Here is a bowl of fruit I bought for 200 MXN, about $10 US.
Bowl of fruit we bought at local market in Cuernavaca central
Catedral de Cuernavaca, the fortress-cathedral built at Cortes’s request. It was easy to spend 4 hours strolling through this wonder with its fortress-like style that served a purpose to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives.
Catedral de Cuernavaca, Mexico
Jardin Borda – quiet, leafy sanctuary built in 1700’s inspired by Versailles. There are paths, steps and fountains laid out in a series of terraces. I love the typical colonial style where the buildings are arranged around courtyards.
Museo Casa Robert Brady – 16th century Franciscan convent. He spent his life traveling around the world collecting art he loved and lived in Cuernavaca for twenty-four years.
Museo Robert Brady – Cuernavaca, Mexico
Parque Ecológico Chapultepec – Definitely worth a visit to see people, waterfalls, a butterfly sanctuary, ducks, a running stream throughout fed by waterfalls and lined with a lush jungle, large trees, a pair of crocodiles basking in the sun, peafowl and a way to experience lush Cuernavaca.
Woman at Parque Ecológico
Tepoztlán
There is a tourist initiative called Pueblos Mágicos, or Magical Towns. These are designations given to small towns around the country that provide tourists with an otherwordly experience either through culture, environment or history. In other words, an authentic traditional environment.
This family was waiting in the bus station in Cuernavaca as I was leaving for Tepoztlán.
Young girl on the street in Tepoztlán, Mexico.
Woman selling pottery in Tepoztlán, Mexico.
Blue tortillas in the market of Tepoztlán.
Corn in the market at Tepoztlán
Selling vegetables in the market at Tepoztlán, Mexico.
Tepoztlán is the only pueblo mágico in Morelos. There is an ancient temple set high atop a cliff, a 16th-century former convent. Amongst gorgeous mountain scenery, and winding cobblestone streets nestled in a green valley, it has a mystical quality and a charm. I found the zócola filled with people selling clothing, and a natural products store where I bought shampoo made with rosemary, eucalyptus, aloe vera, basil, avocado bone, nopal, jojoba, verbana, royal jelly, mint and not one chemical in it. En route to Tepoztlán, I commented to a girl sitting next to me how pretty the bread was in the basket of mixed types and styles. She offered to open it for me, to which I politely declined not just because I wasn’t hungry but I didn’t want her to break open her lovely bread basket for me.
Basket of bread on the bus to Tepoztlán
Woman at market in Tepoztlán, Mexico.
Young woman in Tepoztlán, Mexico.
Woman selling limes in the market at Tepoztlán.
Ex-Convento de La Natividad, another World Heritage Site. Tepoztlán, Mexico
Taxco
Taxco- Another bus ride, this time from Terminal Estrella Blanco. I was speaking to a girl on the bus and asked her about how to get to the Zócalo. Google Maps had me going in circles more than once and I knew Taxco would probably confuse Google Maps and me endlessly. She walked me all the way to the center. The kindness I found at every turn in Cuernavaca was the norm, it was consistent.
Meat vendor with two woman. Taxco, Mexico
On the street in Taxco, Mexico.
Woman selling coconuts in Taxco, Mexico.
I love her face, so strong and proud.
Her eyes were filled with kindness.
Woman selling apricots. Taxco, Mexico.
Woman selling jewelery. Taxco, Mexico.
Woman with child, Taxco, Mexico.
Taxco, Mexico view from the restaurant
Woman selling flowers Taxco, Mexico.
As I sat on the bus from Cuernava back to Mexico City, the bus driver waved at every bus coming the other way. Waved and smiled. “Que la vaya bien” “May you be well” said the girl to me in the bus station central in CD as we both tried to figure out where to meet our respective Uber drivers. I heard “para sirvele” “I’m here to serve you” over and over throughout my stay in Mexico.
Between the ruins of UNESCO World Heritage sites, walks into the city center, colors of red, orange and blues and smells of tortillas unique to Mexico, churches, gardens and museums I visited, Cuernavaca was a soul enriching experience. More than any aspect of my stay in Cuernavaca, was the care I was given by Juana. It wasn’t just that she made each and every meal so pretty to look at with hand made doilies that she had created and beautiful ceramics to eat out of, it was the actual care and affection from a complete stranger, from someone who wanted absolutely nothing from me and gave from her heart. There were heart-centered angels throughout my journey to Cuernavaca. “Agradezco” “I appreciate it”, Juana said when she opened the card I left for her, thanking her for her care and leaving her a gift. More than just courteous, I find the people of Mexico angeles centrado en el corazón, “heart centered angels.” Even as I leave Cuernavaca, I am dreaming of when I shall be able to return.
I’ve been wandering early and late.
Self Portrait en route to Taxco with Rolleiflex.
Self Portrait in front of map. Made with Rolleiflex. Cuernavaca, Mexico.
There was no possibility that I was going to watch the news or doom scroll on Twitter on election night. As I grabbed a back up battery, I rushed out the front door. I always carry an extra SanDisk card in case I forget my card in my camera which last night I did as I was anxious to get into the city and in my car I went. Beginning on Sunset Blvd, I headed east from Laurel Canyon. That’s when I began to see my city with boarded up stores as far as Western Avenue. I stopped by Objets d’Art & Spirit, to see the owner who has worked for decades to build her dream in Los Angeles. This store was on LaCienega for nearly three decades and is now on Sunset Blvd. My heart hurt to see her store being boarded up with plywood.
Motion Picture Editors Guild on Sunset Blvd.
Objets’ d’art and Spirit.
Self Portrait on Sunset Blvd.
This sign gave me hope.
I parked my car so I could walk my city. Yes, my city. I grew up in Los Angeles specifically in the San Fernando Valley. Back in the 70’s, there was less crime. The worst thing that happened here was a hub cap was stolen off a car. The abuse went on behind closed doors. Now, as I walked around with my camera near Western and Sunset, I saw the taco truck where people gathered to place their orders. One man was hanging lights as the others were cooking meat and vegetables and onions over a hot grill. I saw people on their cell phones and others waiting for the bus. Mothers holding their children’s hands, a couple taking off on their skateboards after a quick chat with me. I was filled with so much hope for my city, my country, our world.
As I drove south towards Melrose, I still had no idea how close the polls were. I thought of my father, who came to this country from Poland as an immigrant after working with the Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society for five years, to get the proper permissions to enter America. His hopes were to start a new life, a life after the Holocaust and America was his chosen dream. My father taught me that with hard work, I could create my own dream and I did but it required dedication, commitment and a never ending drive and persistance to become a stunt woman in Hollywood.
As I drove west on Melrose and saw more store fronts all covered with wood to protect the stores from the inevitable damage, I stopped at another taco bar on the street. There were 4 people working there from the women chopping the onions to the one creating the warm tortillas to the men again cooking the various meats. I thought of my father, who worked at least 4 different jobs to put food on the table for his five children. I passed movie studios were I have worked over the three decades in Hollywood not only as a stunt woman but in locations. My dreams came true in this city. I know this city like no other from where to park without getting a ticket to where to get the best street taco. Still, I remained hopeful for the outcome of this election.
As I drove south on Highland and headed to Wilshire Blvd and onto Beverly Hills, I had heard that Rodeo Blvd was boarded up but I had no idea what was in store for me. Not only boarded up stores but all access to Rodeo Blvd was blocked with barriers, police and security guards. Here, I spoke to a young man and asked if he knew where we were in the polls. He said it was close. I asked him who he voted for as I could feel his answer in my bones. “Trump” he replied “And now I regret it.” I had no words so I stayed silent. This was the first time I checked my phone all evening to see the poll numbers.
Photographing Beverly Hills and all our city with boards up and down the streets hurt my heart. What has happened to our country and can we save it? When I awoke this morning, November 4, my dear friend Ruth, who has been building homes in Los Angeles for years, posted the poem “Good Bones” by Maggie Smith on Instagram and wrote “America! I believe you have good bones.” Maggie Smith writes out of experience of motherhood, inspired by her children. And, Ruth, who has worked so hard to raise her two children in Los Angeles, gave me hope this morning.
I thought of my father, who would buy the crummiest homes because he said “It had good bones” and how he bought homes and built homes all over the San Fernando Valley to support his children and give them a better life than he had in Poland. I awoke with hope, again.
Good Bones by Maggie Smith
Life is short, though I keep this from my children. Life is short, and I’ve shortened mine in a thousand delicious, ill-advised ways, a thousand deliciously ill-advised ways I’ll keep from my children. The world is at least fifty percent terrible, and that’s a conservative estimate, though I keep this from my children. For every bird there is a stone thrown at a bird. For every loved child, a child broken, bagged, sunk in a lake. Life is short and the world is at least half terrible, and for every kind stranger, there is one who would break you, though I keep this from my children. I am trying to sell them the world. Any decent realtor, walking you through a real shithole, chirps on about good bones: This place could be beautiful, right? You could make this place beautiful.
Michael Jackson taught me what media bias is and the karma train has made another stop. Not one single solitary media outlet has reported the fact that James Safechucks’ multi million dollar posthumous lawsuit was thrown out of court again. This time it was dismissed with no fake technicalities as an excuse either. That makes two different judges who ruled for dismissal. Channel 4 is financing director of Leaving Neverland Dan Reed to be there.
Not one media outlet would publish anything pro about Michael after the Leaving Neverland mockumentary, fakeumentary. The media flooded the public consciousness with MJ guilt bullshit all over again.
Michael Jackson was always innocent from Evan Chandler’s extortion case in 1993 to the Me Too Arvizo’s in 2005 to the attempt from Wade Robson who not only was the first witness for the defense in the 2005 trial but whose attempt to obtain millions from Michael’s children’s inheritance was thrown out of court in 2013 as the lies were so preposterous that the judge said no one could believe them. Two white men slandered a dead black man, the media treated their allegations as fact without offering a platform to the defense of the dead black man.
No more dirt being thrown at Michael’s name with false accusations. The accusers were after money, they were always after money. Michael has been proven innocent multiple times, the accusers discredited and caught in lies multiple times and the only reason “Leaving Neverland” was made and released was because he’s not alive to defend himself.
Unless you have read “Conspiracy” by Aphrodite Jones or “Redemption” by Geraldine Hughes, unless you have read the court transcripts and the police reports and the FBI report and watched Square One on Prime and truly researched the truth of the witch hunt against this man, as I have for ten years, then you don’t know the truth.
You do not know the truth about Michael Jackson, you only know the lies the media force fed the public for 27 years. It’s time to stop judging someone based on media propanganda. Michael Jackson was a loving, giving, compassionate person whose only goal was to create music and heal the world. He gave away 500 million dollars to various charities in an attempt to heal the world. All Michael Jackson accusers from Evan Chandler to the Me Too Arvizos to James Safechuck and Wade Robson were after money. As Michael wrote in “Money” – “They don’t care they’d kill for the money.” Let’s stop with the slander against a dead black man who is not here to defend himself.
I leave you with this. In 1994, Michael Jackson was responsible for the life-saving surgery for Tamás Farkas (previously Béla, 28) by paying for his liver transplant in Brussels. They stayed in touch until Michael’s death. It was a rare occasion when Jackson’s charitable act received publicity and media attention. This is who Michael Jackson was.
UPDATE: April 20, 2021: Los Angeles Superior Court Judge Mark A. Young has tentatively dismissed the last of the cases brought by choreographer Wade Robson against the Estate of Michael Jackson. On this final ruling, the judge’s decision was “no triable issue.”
Final ruling: April 27, 2021: Dismissed again, for the 3rd time. Robson’s cases against Jackson and his estate came out of a left field claim that he was sexually abused when he was a child. Troubling and suspicious as Robson testified in Jackson’s defense in his 2005 trial and continued to sing his praises, even after he died. Only after the estate rejected him to work on the Michael Jackson “One” show, did Robson make the claims. Leaving Neverland was filled with so many holes, that it was debunked within the first month of release.
The truth is I wasn’t going to blog on the anniversary of Michael Jackson’s 62nd birthday this year. Not only have we been in a heat wave in Los Angeles but I have been trying to manage with my mother locked down in a nursing facility, left brain damaged from her second husband’s abuse. For the past six months, she has not been allowed visitors but I have been given permission to see her from a gate for 25 minutes, in the sun, with traffic whizzing by, two times a week. The isolation is getting to her as she does not understand why she has no visitors coming inside even though I have tried to explain the situation to her. She asks me to “come inside”, “let’s go” “vamanos” and “open the gate.” Finding a perfectly ripe avocado made me happy, because it’s the only food they allow me to bring her.
The medical director of the facility told me “We need your voice, don’t back down” so I haven’t but it’s exhausting. Then, to make matters worse, I was told that the facility working with the Dept. of Health would open up a safe, social distanced arrangement where family can visit without endangering the residents, staff or visitors at the end of August. There were 5 new cases in a building in the same campus two weeks ago, so the residents have been locked down once again.
In place of boredom, I offer my mother spontaneity. In place of loneliness, I offer companionship. Instead of feeling helpless, being able to visit with my mother gave me the opportunity to take care of another human being. I look forward to the day that will we set them free from this tyranny.
As I pulled into Forest Lawn Glendale, I was wondering if Michael would be remembered this year as more people tend to visit on the anniversary of his death, rather than his birthday. As I saw the intricate, creative cards and the stunning arrangement of flowers, I knew I had to share these photographs with his fans so here I am again.
Michael Lutkes originally from Dusseldorf, now living in Los Angeles, created this painting.
Mountains of flowers for Michael.
From Russia – We Just Can’t Stop Loving You
Flowers from Italian fans
The fans in Denmark designed this Neverland boat. It was stunning to see the details such as the sail with tiny sunflowers.
Someone created a birthday cupcake extravaganza. The creativity of Michael Jackson fans never fails to astound me.
This stand up from the History era was lovely.
More stunning flowers from Italy.
YouTube: German in Venice
Look at the tiny ladybug details!
Inner card
Isabelle Vicente from France
The beauty of Siren’s card always capture me, year after year.
Back side of Siren’s card. Siren started painting after Michael died. Her art and writing are from her heart.
Card made by Carol H.
The care, passion, creativity of these cards are so healing to see in person.
oh, so pretty!
Helena Ong – Malaysia
Messages of love to Michael
My heart is filled with sorrow because of my mother’s isolation and if I can bring a smile to someone in the world, sharing the love I am witness to at Forest Lawn, then I have accomplished something meaningful today. No one understood this better than Michael Jackson, whose genuine love and caring for humanity was part of why he touched so many hearts around the globe. Michael Jackson was the embodiment of love, kindness, caring and the most creative soul to ever walk this planet.
Seeing my friends Gloria Lopez and Marty Theis brought so much warmth to my hurting heart.
Finally, last but not least, the love between Gloria and her fiancé, is so heart affirming.