Lisbon, Portugal – A Wonderment

Self Portrait – Created with Ilford Delta 400 Pro film – I love the fine grain, depth and detail of this T-grain film ( which is slightly modified from a conventional-grain film in the way the film’s silver content is dispersed)
Holga 120N

My travels began in Lisbon which is a mixture of vintage trolleys squeaking up and down hills, trendy restaurants by famous chefs such as José Avillez and his empire in Portugal, and charming hotels such as Monte Belvedere on Rua Santa Catarina in the Bairro Alto neighborhood. The periodic fog gives Lisbon an almost San Francisco feel and I was enchanted by the many cafes with an abundance of local fish, Ribero de Duero wine and the unique black-and-white pattered tile pavement. Azulejos, which come from an Arab word meaning small polished stone, are ubiquitous. 

Azulejos, which come from an Arab word meaning small polished stone, are ubiquitous.

Portugal is a country filled with gritty edges and sophisticated restaurants like Silent Living, a quiet oasis, and one of the most unique dinners I’ve ever experienced, with at least 6 different side dishes.   No matter where you are, you’re never far from the sea. Is it my imagination that the Portuguese seem even friendlier than the Spanish, whom I’ve always found warm and heart centered.  

The Ribera del Duero region of wine has always been a favorite of mine so it was especially exciting knowing I would be able to experience this part of the world in person. 

Staying in the Bairro Alto (high quarter) and Chiado parts of the city gave me a different taste of what the city has to offer.  Hilltop Bairro Alto was laid out in a grid pattern in the late 19^th century, after rich citizens moved out of the Alfama area. For a different experience I also stayed at Hotel Borges Chiado on Rua Garrett. If you’d like to stay in the heart of the city, this is a great location.  The street lamps are decorated with the symbol of Lisbon, a ship, carrying the remains of St. Vincent, guarded by two ravens. 

As a side note, Portugal became part of the European Union only 12 years after the end of fascist dictatorship of 1932 to 1974.  Too much to discuss in this blog for this topic.

Famous Pasteis de nata -Lisbon, Portugal

Pasteis de nata are the famous Portuguese egg tart pastries. They have a flaky crust with a custard filling. I liked the dusting with powdered sugar and cinnamon and a cup of coffee.

Famous Pastéis de Belém shop

A half day trip to Fátima by bus via the Oriente train station was a welcome adventure. The trip was 1 hour 30 minute bus each way but worth it.  My experience of the train was good, as it stuck to its schedule and was clean. Fátima is the most important pilgrimage sites in Portugal. This is where an apparition of Mary appeared to three shepherd children, six times over the course of six months, culminating in the Miracle of the Sun, which 70,000 people witnessed. There is an impressive Basilica, huge church and sprawling plaza. One need not be religious to want to visit Fátima, just curious. 

Fátima, Portugal Church detail.

In 1930, the Vatican recognized the Virgin of Fátima and approved public devotion to the Blessed Virgin and declared the apparitions “worthy of belief.” People come from all over to be part of this modern miracle and I have read that some actually walk 67 miles one way from as far away as Lisbon.  

Church painting detail Fátima, Portugal

Fátima, Portugal Church detail

Fátima Church candles burning outside the church entrance

I was invited to be part of an exhibition, at Imago Lisboa, from my 10 year photography book project, He Threw the Last Punch Too Hard, which gave me the perfect opportunity to travel there. It’s a place I would return to again as I found it to be a mixture of yummy food, rich wines, warm people and a spiritual feeling in the places of worship. 

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He Threw the Last Punch Too Hard by Hannah Kozak
Imago Lisboa; Imago; Carpintarias de São Lázaro; Festival; Exposição; Fotografia; Lisboa; © Hugo David 2022

Almost surreal seeing some of my photographs of my mother, on the wall in another country.
I wondered how she was, from across the Atlantic.

Pastéis de Belém and their famous coffee.

Self Portrait

Self Portrait Lisbon, Portugal

Wandering through the streets. Loved this little fruit and vegetable market.

Shoemaker Lisbon, Portugal

Oh, the pastries are yummy!

Self Portrait – Lisbon, Portugal

One of my favorite images from the journey. The space, light, solitude.

Another fruit and vegetable market while wandering the streets. Lisbon, Portugal

Self Portrait

Self Portrait – Bread shop Lisbon, Portugal

Self Portrait – Created with Ilford Delta 400 Pro film Holga 120N